Gems in My Glass . . . September 2013

Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula, Part 1The Michigan wine country is one that always leaves me with pleasant memories and wonderment.  With each visit, I find this growing region continues to elevate the quality level, unveil new producers, and present remarkably crafted wines, and this year is no exception.    My recent trip encompassed visits to properties in the beautifully scenic, hopping with activity Old Mission Peninsula and Lake Leelanau Peninsula AVA's.  Among my favorites were:Chateau Grand Traverse Winery and Vineyards; www.cgtwines.com:2012 "Laika" Grüner Veltliner; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  This tantalizing Grüner, aged 100% in stainless steel, is lean and minerally with melon and spice notes on the nose and entry.  Joining in mid palate are flavors of chopped herbs, citrus fruits and white pepper accents framed by vibrant acidity.  Nicely weighted and balanced through the bright finish.  SRP:  $172012 Ship of Fools; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Engaging and well balanced, this blend of 70% Pinot Blanc, 25% Pinot Gris and 5% Pinot Noir broadcasts a beautifully expressive tropical aroma.   Layers of guava, ripe melon, dragon fruit and lemon verbena flourish on the palate.  A lush, round texture carries the fruit and acidity brilliantly through the quenching finish.  SRP:  ~$152013 Whole Cluster Select Riesling; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Lovely minerality greets the nose with this medium dry Riesling.   Vivid flavors of white peach, green apple, fennel, allspice and mineral notes unravel onto the palate with style.  I love the purity and liveliness of this Riesling, and the hint of sweetness is well placed.  SRP:  $152013 Lot 49 Riesling "Cuvee Molly Devine";  Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:   This fragrant single vineyard block bottling of Alsace Clone #49 Riesling showcases citrus accented apricots, peach skin, wet stone nuances, a sprinkle of fresh herbs and a splash of tangerine melding together in harmony from first sip.  Sleek with lively acidity and leesy notes underlining the core of bright fruit, and the finish is long lasting. SRP:  $212011 Gamay Noir Reserve; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Dense, dark fruit aromas with a hint of oak drive you into the glass, where you'll revel in the rich texture and dense blackberries, cherries, ripe plums and a hint of strawberry jam melding with a generous twist of fresh cracked peppercorns dancing on the palate.  Immensely satisfying with just the right level of toasty oak, this complex, well structured wine finishes with an aftertaste that carries on and on.  SRP:  $20Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery; www.brysestate.com:2013 Naked Chardonnay; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  This pure, fresh Chardonnay comes from a blend of clones 809, 96, 76.  Heady scents of citrus blossom and honeysuckle engage the nose, and flavors of succulent, fresh papaya and pineapple spears spill out upon entry.   Mid palate it is vibrant and juicy with crisp pears and a splash of citrus and herbs mingling with the lush, tropical fruit.  Thoroughly refreshing through the buoyant finish.  SRP:  $242013 Pinot Blanc; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  This impressive Pinot Blanc proudly announces its presence with a gorgeous floral nose.  It is equally compelling in the mouth with layers of Asian pears, passion fruit and fresh pineapple bursting forth with accents of lemon lime, stony minerality and tisane herbal tea.  The wine is rich and tactile with impeccable balance; a magnificently crafted wine.  SRP:  $252012 Pinot Noir; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:   Here's a wildly expressive Pinot Noir that hits the jackpot with its subtle oak, red cherries and exotic spice aromas lifting from the glass.  Crafted from vines planted to Dijon clones, the wine continues to unfold on the palate with warm earth, pomegranate and citrusy notes adding further dimension.  Love the restraint in alcohol at 12.9%, too.  Elegant and pure through the uplifted finish.  SRP:  $322011 Cabernet Franc; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  This intensely flavored Cab Franc is deeply fruited with raspberry, candied berry, plum, cherry and orange zest flavors caressing the palate, making way for cinnamon stick, eucalyptus and earthy highlights to peek through.  The aging in 20% new, 50% second and 30% neutral barrels keeps the oak nicely in the background, and the tannins are firm yet velvety smooth.  SRP:  $50Bowers Harbor Vineyards, www.bowersharbor.com:2009 Cuvee Evan Blanc de Blanc: From their Old Mission Peninsula estate Block 1 comes this sassy sparkling wine, chalk full of yeasty aromas.    A spirited, tiny bead tickles the tongue and the wine explodes with vibrancy upon entry.  Flavors of crisp pear, brioche and a touch of butterscotch wrapped around a nice backbone of acidity swirl on the palate with spice notes joining in on the glittering finish.   SRP:  $302012 "2986" Langley; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:   Aged 18 months in French Oak barrels, this deep blend of 69% Cab Franc, 30% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon intertwines subtle oak with black plum, cassis, blackberry, a touch of roasted bell peppers and savory spice.  It is tightly wound with firm tannins supporting the generous flavor profile.  Decant if you pop the cork now.  If you have the time and patience, this wine is also one to hold; you'll reap rewards in cellaring.  SRP:  $75 Black Star Farms Winery; www.blackstarfarms.com:2013 Arcturos Dry Riesling; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Here is an exquisite Riesling that tempts the senses with stony mineral and fresh sun-ripened peach aromatics.   Bright and precisely balanced, it opens with high notes that set the stage for focused minerality framing juicy, citrus backed stone fruit and lemon verbena accents.  The finish offers a touch of lime zest and persists with plenty of verve.  SRP: $152013 Arcturos Pinot Blanc; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Enticing tropical fruit aromas waft from the glass with this smooth as silk Pinot Blanc. Bracing acidity is a beautiful counter balance to the juicy pineapple, guava and apple fruit flavors with bright lemon zest highlights richly unfolding on the palate.   A stylish wine that shows depth and purity from start to lip-smacking finish.  SRP:  $182013 Arcturos Pinot Noir Rosé; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:   Scents of a garden-fresh bouquet and juicy strawberry shortcake start the mouth watering.  The delectable melding of red cherries, strawberries and raspberries with a splash of citrus simply delights the taste buds.  The fresh fruit enveloped in lively acidity flows in a steady stream on its way to a vivacious, uplifted finish; a chic dry rose.  SRP:   $13.502011 Arcturos Pinot Noir; 60% Grand Traverse County, 40% Leelanau County, Michigan:  This mesmerizing Pinot Noir awakens the senses with aromas of violets and cherry cordial.  Nicely structured and distinctive with layers of a spiced cherry compote, anise seed and hints of beet root elegantly displayed on the palate.  The essence of toasty oak spice from 10% new French oak aging is subtle and well integrated.  SRP:  $252007 A Capella Pinot Noir; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Forest floor aromas capture your attention and keep you further enraptured with each sip.   Deep and complex with flavors of black cherry, licorice drops, pipe spice and a sprinkling of fresh dill unraveling heavenly in the mouth.   The fine balance and firm backbone of tannins suggests this Burgundian style Pinot Noir will continue to show well for years.  SRP:  ~$27.502004 Arcturos Pinot Noir; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan:  I'm a huge fan of truffles in any form, and this divinely aromatic Pinot Noir really oozes black truffles on the nose!   Dark cherry and raspberry fruit thrive with the tantalizing earthy, truffle notes and hints of sage, and the management of underlying oak is well executed.  At ten years of age, this wine is drinking fabulously; smartly crafted.   SRP:  ~$25Left Foot Charley Urban Winery; www.leftfootcharley.com:2013 Sauvignon Blanc; Leelanau County, Michigan:  I really appreciate the grassy style of this energetic Sauvignon Blanc.  It's well balanced and fully flavored with gooseberry, kiwi, and quince paste engaging the nose and decorating the palate with aplomb.   Fresh and vibrant with an attractive highlight of fresh chopped herbs on the sassy finish.  SRP:  $202013 Old Orchard Vineyard Kerner; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan:  Here's a fascinating wine made from this under the radar grape, a cross of Riesling and Trollinger (more widely grown in Germany).  The entry is delicate and easy, with pretty perfumed citrus blossom notes.  The wine gains momentum on the palate with tasty lemon curd, nectarine, apple skin and tropical notes weaving with a touch of herbs, and it finishes with a kick of lemon-lime; provocative.   SRP:  $202012 Seventh Hill Farm Riesling; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Intense aromas of sautéed pears, peaches and gobs of minerality arouse the olfactory receptors.  This Riesling is powerful and pure, with the citrus infused tree fruits entwined with steely mineral notes reaching every nook and cranny in the mouth.  The pleasurable aftertaste continues with plenty of spirit and good length, too.  SRP:  $23Watch this space for additional impressive Michigan wine recommendations in Part 2 of “Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula"; soon to follow.