Gems in My Glass . . . October 2014
Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula, Part 2Part 2 focuses on Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula, which holds an abundance of charm and talent throughout the AVA. The following are among the gems that I was impressed with during my recent visit:Bel Lago Vineyards & Winery; www.bellago.com2012 Pinot Gris Reserve; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Welcoming ripe tropical fruits and leesy notes will fully awaken your senses with this intensely fragrant Pinot Gris. Layers of delicious tropical guava, sun drenched pineapple and vibrant citrus wrapped around a solid backbone of acidity unfold on the palate. A skillfully crafted Pinot Gris that is impeccably balanced and finishes long. SRP: $222012 Pinot Grigio; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Sur lie aging gives this tasty wine depth and sophistication, and the marvelous aromatics show off vivid florality. It is bright and balanced on the palate, where flavors of fresh kiwi, green apple notes and a flaky crusted mandarin orange tart entwine. This Pinot Grigio impresses with significant complexity through the extended finish. SRP: $172012 Auxerrois; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: This dry white wine (crafted from a grape widely grown in France, and planted by Bel Lago in Michigan back in the 1980’s) is lively and focused, from the citrusy aromas to the juicy fruit at the core. Melon, pineapple and apple drench the palate with lemon zest and flecks of herbs and spice chiming in, and the mouth feel is exquisite. SRP: $192010/2011 Gewürztraminer; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Here's a sexy, spicy Gewürztraminer for you. Rising from the glass are gorgeous aromatics of rose petals, spice and honeysuckle. Coating the mouth are sweet grapefruit, lychee nut, and ginger spice with colorful orange and lemon accents. The hint of sweetness is well placed, and the vibrant acidity flows smartly through the juicy fruit. SRP: $182011 Chardonnay; Lake Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: You'll swoon at first whiff of this intensely structured Chardonnay, aged in 100% French oak. The enticing butterscotch aroma leads to flavors of baked apples, honeydew melon, pie spice and vanilla bean highlights that richly coat the palate. The oak presentation is subtle and well integrated, and you'll find a striking counterpoint of acidity, remarkable depth, and purity from start to heavenly finish SRP: $222012 Moreno Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: I tasted this stunning gem from the barrel and was thoroughly engaged and inspired. Enticing aromatics lead to a flavorful wine showcasing dark cherries, warm earth, raspberry, tobacco spice and a pretty touch of oak. I expect this complex Pinot Noir to age well with its density of fruit, finely tuned acidity, and firmly structured tannins. SRP: ~$422010 Reserve Pinot Noir; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Tempting scents of dried cherries and spice lift from the glass. Building provocatively on the palate are mouthwatering layers of cherries, forest floor nuances, hints of anise and cranberry/raspberry compote with a squeeze of orange. Complex and precisely balanced with nicely integrated tannins, this wine finishes with good length and verve. SRP: $352007 Bel Lago Pinot Noir; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Expressive aromas of wild mushrooms and red berries wow the senses. It is equally seductive on the palate with fresh strawberries, cranberries, cherry pie notes, sautéed mushrooms and sweet oak spices interlacing sublimely. This Pinot Noir is deep and complex with a lovely texture and fine grained tannins. It has aged magnificently thus far, and promises additional years ahead. SRP: ~$352005 Bel Lago Pinot Noir; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Love the woodsy aroma that captures your full attention with this exquisite wine, which has aged elegantly. Ethereal on the palate with flavors of wild mushrooms, hints of tobacco, dried cherry and savory spices that mesh in fine synchronization. Deftly integrated oak is displayed from first sip through the finish; one that is long lasting and memorable. SRP: ~$35 Forty-Five North Vineyard & Winery; www.fortyfivenorth.com2013 "45" White; Michigan: This medium sweet blend of Vidal Blanc Cayuga White, La Crescent and Riesling delivers an appealing walk in the garden floral bouquet to the nose. Coating the mouth are palate pleasing sun-kissed fruits. Fresh pineapple, ripe melon and juicy peaches team up with a clear-cut level of acidity. If you lean toward sweetness in your wine, this one will surely hit the spot. SRP: $162013 Unoaked Chardonnay; Michigan: This bright Chardonnay captures the fruity essence of the Chardonnay grape. Two lots were fermented separately and left on the lees for four months, adding good depth and complexity. At the core are delicious citrus flecked apples and pears with hints of fresh herbs and spice peeking through. It is crisp and streamlined through the uplifted finish. SRP: $192012 Cabernet Franc; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Floral aromas captivate the nose with this lively, well-crafted wine. It is deep and satisfying as it flows onto the tongue with sweet blackberries, tart wild berries and spiced blueberry compote flavors linking with violets and attractive oak notes. A subtle suggestion of roasted green bell peppers shows through from mid to back palate, and the aftertaste lingers delightfully. SRP: $38L. Mawby Winery; www.lmawby.comL. Mawby Talismon NV Brut; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: The distinctively expressive nose will knock your socks off. This whole cluster pressed field blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Vignoles is alluring with its yeasty, leesy characteristics up front. Dancing on the palate are flavors of freshly baked pie crust, sautéed apple slices, almond butter, lemon curd and a splash of lemon-lime. Creamy in texture, complex and properly balanced, this buoyant bubbly finishes with a vibrant lift. SRP: $37Sandpainting NV Extra Brut; Michigan: Yeasty scents and floral notes waft enticingly from the glass. Here is an inviting sparkling wine that displays a lively stream of tiny bubbles. Crafted of 50% Pinot Noir, 27% Chardonnay and 23% Vignoles, this wine made in the Methode Champenoise traditional method is aptly named. It is beautiful with racy acidity balancing the rich layers of flaky croissants, dried apricots, tinges of roasted nuts and quince paste that weave artistically on the palate; charming and energetic. SRP: $29L. Mawby 2005 Mille Brut; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: This enrapturing Methode Champenoise sparkling wine brags a beautiful tiny bead that lives on forever. Fashioned from 100% Chardonnay fruit, this jewel, kept on the yeast for seven years, is deep and complex. Intoxicating aromas of brioche and hints of honey wow the senses. It is rich and creamy in the mouth with layers of freshly baked bread, warm apple crisp, spicy poached pears, a twist of lemon peel, and butterscotch notes that unravel amidst invigorating acidity; a triumphant bubbly. SRP: $50Shady Lane Cellars; www.shadylanecellars.com2012 Gewürztraminer; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: This well composed Gewürz with just a touch of sweetness opens with an alluring floral nose. The expressive, jazzy palate is brimming with varietally correct layers of guava, orange blossom, lychee and fresh tangerine with a generous thread of spice. Well balanced and lively with an aftertaste that lingers gracefully. SRP: $20.952011 Blue Franc; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Here is a juicy, spicy red wine that is nicely balanced and pure throughout. Red and black cherry and berry fruits entice the nose and expand fully on the palate with cedar notes and alluring spicy elements remaining focused and persistent. The aging in 100% French oak (25% new) is well integrated and adds a toasty note to the pleasing finish. SRP: $28.952011 Franc 'n' Franc; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Making quite a statement with its darkly fruited, intriguing aromas, this wine is a blend of 57% Blaufränkisch, 36% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot. It has a serious side with its depth and solid structure, and shows off an elegant side with its balance and smooth texture. Black currants, blueberries, tobacco spice and wild berries meld with a fine level of acidity and flow smoothly into the enduring finish. SRP: $19.95Brengman Brothers Crain Hill Vineyards; www.brengmanbrothers.com2012 Artist Series Unoaked Chardonnay; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Aged in the growing in popularity concrete egg-shaped tank, this beautifully textured Burgundian style Chardonnay opens with wildly expressive Chablis-like minerality on the nose. Crisp apple, citrus fruit, pineapple and notes of herbs and minerals converge on the palate in harmony. A complex, well-structured wine with zesty acidity and a finish that is long and memorable. SRP: $32.952012 Artist Series Barrel Aged Chardonnay; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Provocative aromas of roasted nuts and orchard fruit engage the senses with this compelling Chard, aged in French oak. Interlacing flavors of butter-accented baked pears, spiced apple cobbler, Meyer lemon and hints of clover honey take center stage, merging with toasty oak elements and minerality that add further dimension. Intense in structure with an exact balance, this wine is pretty in its youth, and should age handsomely for years. SRP: $39.952012 Dry Riesling Reserve; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Fragrances of wet stone, minerals and stone fruit (just what sings Riesling to me) jump out of the glass. The flavor profile is vivid and intense with white peaches and hints of dried apricots joining stony minerality, lime zest and a touch of herbs flourishing on the palate. Lean and crisp with bracing acidity, the wine finishes on a bright note with plenty of length. SRP: $21.952010 Med-Sweet Riesling Reserve; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Here's an appealing sweet Riesling that perks up the senses with notes of cinnamon stick on the nose. It is streamlined from start to finish with minerally, ripe stone fruit, hints of white flowers and a touch of herbs unfolding delectably in the mouth. Well balanced and pure through the lively finish. SRP: $24.952013 Gary’s Reserve Gewürztraminer; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: This mouthwatering, highly aromatic Gewürz dances on the palate with spicy, mineral laded lychee and apricot flavors intermingling with pretty citrus notes. The texture is silky and the wine remains snappy as racy acidity cuts through the sweet citrus-backed fruit. A kick of gingerbread is highlighted on the lip-smacking finish. SRP: $24.95Nathaniel Rose Wine 2010 Syrah/Viognier, Domaine Berrien, Abigail Vineyard; Lake Michigan Shore, Michigan: Here is a full bodied Syrah co-fermented with Viognier in the classic Cote Rotie fashion. This is a well defined, complex wine. Floral characteristics engage the nose and lead to a spicy mouthful of black fruit, hints of roasted meat, herbs and spice. Deep, dark and delicious with full on tannins suggesting ageworthiness. SRP: $50Nathaniel Rose Wine 2012 Left Bank; Domaine Berrien, Abigail Vineyard; Lake Michigan Shore, Michigan: This extraordinary blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 3% Cab Franc proudly boasts an intense, black fruit, spicy aroma converging with flavors of plum, blackberry, fresh tobacco, cassis and espresso bean. Tightly wound and complex, it was aged in neutral French oak; the subtle oak nuances are appreciated. Powerful in its intensity and structure with a precise balance and firm tannins, this wine is impressive in its youth. You'll be handsomely rewarded by practicing patience, too; a cellarworthy wine. SRP: $2502013 Cabernet Franc Icewine, Wooden Fish Vineyard; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan: Here is a delectable dessert wine with an outgoing personality. Enticing aromatics lead to layers of dense, juicy raspberries, olallieberries, savory rhubarb pie components, a trace of roasted nuts and a drizzle of honey captivating the palate. This gem is fully flavored and well balanced with hints of toast and caramel on the richly satisfying finish; a perfect nightcap. SRP: $75Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula wine regions offer a wealth of beauty, charm, passionate personalities and noteworthy wines. You too should take the time to explore these wineries, and additional producers who are also crafting beautiful wines in these regions (wineries that I did not have the opportunity to visit this time. For example, Chateau Fontaine comes to mind). I will continue following these AVA’s to keep my eye and my palate on future developments and vintages respectively, as they continue to raise the bar and further position themselves as significant players in the world of wine.
