Gems in My Glass . . . February 2016
Wines from Portugal: More than stunning Port worthy of praise!Vintage Port, Tawny Port, Colheita and Late-Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port are Portuguese wines commonly purchased in America. Not as easy to find in the USA are dry table wines made in Portugal, but they are plentiful and very reasonably priced in the country in which they were produced. It was enlightening and palate pleasing to explore wines there from a number of wine regions. The lovely, well-staffed Wines of Portugal tasting room, Sala Ogival is located in the west wing of the Terreiro do Paço (Commerce Square) in downtown Lisbon. It is here you can taste many examples of table wines and ports, like those I had the pleasure of sipping while visiting Lisbon recently. Approximate prices noted are for purchases made in Portugal, in the country’s official currency, euros. At the time of this writing, 1 euro equals 1.11 USD. These wines are not widely distributed in North America, but still worth seeking out at your favorite wine shop, or when traveling to Portugal:Principium 2014 Chardonnay Arinto; Lisboa, Portugal: Crafted from grapes of Quinta da Romeira, this delightful blend of 70% Arinto (one of Portugal’s oldest indigenous white grapes) and 30% Chardonnay displays aromas of white wild flowers. On the palate it is bright and lively with crisp apple and citrus accents melding with pretty herbal notes and a hint of minerality. Easy to quaff and a great value. (4 euros)Quinta Dos Carvalhais Encruzado 2014; Dao, Portugal: Encruzado is a white grape widely grown in the Dão DOC. This rendition confidently shows off perfumed aromas, hints of earth and mineral notes, and shimmering flavors of stone fruit laced with fresh squeezed lime. Six month aging in new oak adds dimension through the palate, and the oak is nicely integrated. This complex, well-balanced wine culminates in a highly energetic, radiant finish. (19 euros)Quinta das Pereirinhas 2014 Alvarinho; Mancao and Melgaco, Vinho Verde, Portugal: Here is a snappy dry white wine with an engaging citrus blossom aroma. Rich and intensely flavored with layers of guava, lime sorbet, and pleasing earthy notes that entwine on the palate. The wine remains spirited with well-placed acidity, and the aftertaste is perky and clean. (9 euros)Esporao Quinta dos Murcas 2013 “Assobio” Rose; Douro, Portugal: From the oldest DOC in the world comes this blend of Tinta National, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Francesca and Touriga Franca, It is a charming dry Rosé with a brilliant watermelon hue. Engaging strawberry and cranberry aromas join flavors of wild berry, strawberry, lemon peel and chopped herbs on the lively palate. The nice level of acidity keeps the wine vibrant all the way through the upbeat finish. (8 euros)Companhia das Lezirias 2012 “Tyto Alba” Vinhas Protegidas; Tejo, Portugal: This is a serious minded, bone-dry red blend, named after the barn owl (cleverly depicted on the label) that inhabits the area. Crafted of Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Franca, it offers up scents and flavors of fresh mint, dense black plums, blueberries, tobacco spice, subtle oak and a hint of blackberry candy. Full bodied and juicy on the palate, with a velvety texture and a backbone of refined tannins. (12.5 euros)Quinta dos Termos 2011 Baga; Beira Interior, Portugal: This deeply hued red wine made from Baga, one of Portugal’s indigenous red grapes (small, thick skinned berries), opens with captivating brambleberry aromas. Red berries, black plums, graphite, spicy bread pudding and savory notes entwine leaving a warm, satisfying impression as it coats the palate. Sophisticated and well-structured with firm tannins and upbeat acidity offsetting the rich fruit, and the persistent finish is divine. (20.5 euros)Caves Sao Joao 2012 Quinto do Poco do Lobo; Bairrada, Portugal: This spicy red blend, built of 45% Baga, 45% Touriga Nacional and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, is compelling from first whiff. Cassis, tart huckleberry and black cherry unfold onto the palate with white pepper and fresh earth highlights. Beautifully balanced with firm tannins and good acids, and pure through the pleasing finish. (13.5 euros)Bulas 20 Year Tawny Port; Douro, Portugal: This delicious port is crafted of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca. Toasted nuts and caramel greet the nose. The rich elixir fills the mouth with tiers of crème brûlée caramelized sugar topping, sweet figs, honey-drizzled almonds and a splash of orange liquor. Gorgeous in texture and nicely weighted as it flows to a heavenly finish. (40 euros)Casa de Santa Eufemia 40 year Tawny Port; Douro, Portugal: Here is a powerful and regal Tawny. The exquisite aroma draws you right into the glass. Multilayered with candied ginger, clementine, fig jam, tobacco, nutmeg, crystallized pecans, spice cake, espresso and toffee melding in harmony, creating a spectacular explosion of flavor on the palate. With all its intensity, there is an elegance about this port from start to everlasting finish. (110 euros)Sala Ogival is picture perfect spot located in downtown Lisbon at the water’s edge. It is a worthy destination whenever you head to Lisbon, providing a wonderful opportunity to immerse yourself into Portugal’s world of wine.