Judgment of Geyserville II: Riesling

Wine writers joined up recently for our “Judgment of Geyserville II” blind tasting.   This year’s focus was Riesling from AVA’s located in California, Michigan, British Columbia, Idaho, Oregon, Washington and New York.   As you might imagine, there was a good measure of stone fruit, minerality and lively acidity tickling our palates.   Yet each wine also unveiled its own uniqueness, and a sense of place was often recognized.  My impressions below are listed in the random order in which the wines were arranged for this blind tasting:Chateau Montelena Winery 2013 Riesling; Potter Valley, California:  Earthy spice and minerality join hand in hand on the nose and entry.  In no way bashful, this nicely composed wine unfolds on the palate with layers of peach skin, juicy pear, gooseberry, lemon verbena and lime zest framed by spirited acidity.  The finish expresses itself confidently with an emphatic lift.  SRP:  $25 www.montelena.comWild Goose Vineyards 2012 Stoney Slope Riesling; Okanagan Valley, British Columbia:  Aromas of a diced peach and nectarine compote highlighted by pleasing spice greet the nose.   Weaving through the palate you’ll find juicy nectarine, fresh chopped herbs and stony minerally interlaced with a potent level of acids.  Feisty and bright with a finely tuned integration of flavors through the finish.  SRP:  $20.10 www.wildgoosewinery.com50^th Parallel Estate 2013 Riesling; Okanagan Valley, British Columbia:  Wow, the intense mineral aroma really awakens the senses.   The wet stone minerality stays focused on the palate interlacing with bright flavors of nectarine, lime peel, Asian pear and oyster shell brininess.  Impressive balance and precision throughout, with plenty of length.  SRP:  $18 www.50thparallel.comTrisaetum Winery 2013 J&A Vineyards Estate Reserve Dry Riesling; Willamette Valley, Oregon:  Inviting aromas of fresh pineapple and citrus blossoms entice the nose.  This Riesling, with flavors of just baked peach pie, tangerine and hints of lemon oil, has a nice creaminess about it.  Earthy notes evolve from the back palate through the aftertaste.  SRP:  $38 www.trisaetum.comJones of Washington 2013 Estate Riesling; Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, Washington:  Searing acidity out of the gate with this spunky Riesling leaves a pleasant tingle on the tongue.  Sun ripened peach, apricot and citrus flavors burst in the mouth like colorful fireworks.  Focused and luminous with tangerine and lemon zest accents throughout.  For all its flamboyance, it’s at the same time beautifully elegant.  SRP:  $11.99 www.jonesofwashington.comBlack Star Farms Winery 2013 Arcturos Dry Riesling; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Resplendent aromas of wet stone minerality and fresh cut peaches elaborately engage the senses.  Cascading onto the palate are juicy papaya, peach and nectarine flavors accented by a sunny squeeze of lemon.  The glorious fruit interlaces with racy acidity; a focused, classy Riesling.  SRP:  $15 www.blackstarfarms.comBitner Vineyards 2012 Reserve Riesling; Snake River Valley, Idaho:  Initially reserved on the nose, this Riesling opens with aeration to kumquat, baked pear and hints of petroleum.  It is round on the palate, where flavors of fruit cocktail abound.  The back palate broadcasts tart citrus notes that linger through the finish.  SRP:  ~$17 www.bitnervineyards.comChehalem Wines 2012 Corral Creek Vineyards Riesling; Chehalem Mountains, Oregon:  The expressive mineral laced stone fruit aroma proudly shouts out Riesling.  This wine, skillfully constructed with bracing acids outlining the juicy peach, gooseberry and apple notes, dances vividly across the palate.  The texture is silky, and the finish is both lifted and pleasingly persistent.  SRP:  $29 www.chehalemwines.comCoiled Wines 2013 Dry Riesling; Snake River Valley, Idaho:  Reserved aromas up front, this Riesling opens with further aeration to a wide array of citrus blossom and fruit cocktail aromas and flavors that remain consistent from entry through mid to back palate.  A good level of acidity remains ever present, enlivening the package.  SRP: $17 www.coiledwines.comChateau St. Michelle 2013 Dry Riesling; Columbia Valley, Washington:  Demonstrative aromas of minerals and nectarines richly fill the senses with this snappy, energetic Riesling.  Spice enhanced fresh white peach, nectarine and clementine join rockin’ acidity sashaying effortlessly across the palate.  Wonderfully balanced and pure, finishing bright and fresh.  SRP:  $9 www.ste-michelle.comZocker 2009 Paragon Vineyard Estate Riesling; Edna Valley, California:   Displaying a fragrance of white flowers and delicate flavors, the age of this wine speaks to its subtleness. The peachy, citrus notes and minerality presented clearly confirm it is Riesling.  This vintage showcased more vibrancy in its youth, yet still displays classic components of varietal character at this age.  SRP:  $20 www.zockerwinery.comCharles Smith Wines 2013 Kung Fu Girl Riesling; Columbia Valley, Washington:  Floral aromas are entirely engaging with this succulent, easy to quaff wine.  It's round on the palate, where waves of sweet sliced peaches, lemon drops and creamy pears join bracing acidity.  The wine is juicy and fresh, finishing with a kick of peach schnapps.  SRP: $12 www.charlessmithwines.comBrandborg Vineyard & Winery 2011 Riesling; Umpqua Valley, Oregon:  Herbaceous on the nose and entry, here is a lean, mineral laden Riesling with flavors of sliced kiwi, tart lemon candy and a touch of earthiness.   A bit Sauvignon Blanc like in its flavor profile yet also offering up Riesling characteristics, you may think the two were blended. Dynamic acidity is displayed throughout, and the wine finishes bright and clean.  SRP: $16 www.brandborgwines.comTierce 2012 Dry Riesling; Finger Lakes, New York:  Imagine walking along a flowing stream and catching the aromas of river rock, wild herbs and fresh spring air.  That is vividly captured in this well-crafted Riesling.  Lean and exuberant, you’ll find layers of peach skin, lime zest, tart green apple, wet stone minerality and a pinch of herbs fully invigorating the palate.  Purity and elevated acids thrive through the lingering final sip.  SRP: $30 www.tiercewine.comFox Run Vineyards 2013 Dry Riesling; Finger Lakes, New York:  Earthy, floral aromas rise from the glass with this smoothly textured Riesling.  Flavors of crisp apples and peaches join stimulating jalapeno accents creating an arousing impression.  The wine builds intriguingly through the finish with a nice level of acidity keeping it vibrant.   SRP: $17.99 www.foxrunvineyards.comTantalus Vineyards 2013 Riesling; Okanagan Valley, British Columbia:  This finely balanced Riesling is immensely enticing on the nose with floral nuances and perfectly ripe nectarine flavors flooding the senses.   It flows seamlessly across the palate with layers of fresh peach, nectarine and apple/pear compote entwined with a generous twist of lime.   Steely minerality and unreserved acidity captivate through the upbeat finish.  SRP: $34.90 www.tantalus.caSmith Madrone Vineyards & Winery 2013 Riesling; Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, California:  A bit restrained on the nose initially, minerality peeks through after aeration.   Granny Smith apples and sweet citrus fruit unfold in the mouth with lemon taffy, freshly squeezed lime and orange rind flavors playing off one another.  This is a sassy, edgy Riesling with liberal acidity from start to finish.  SRP:  $27 www.smithmadrone.comHuston Vineyards 2013 Riesling; Snake River Valley, Idaho:  A thread of minerality engages the nose and leads to spiced peach pie and canned apricot flavors copiously filling the mouth.  Silky on the palate with nice level of acidity offsetting the bountiful fruit.  SRP:  $19 www.hustonvineyards.comBrengman Brothers 2013 Crain Hill Vineyards Estate Riesling; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan:  Tightly wound, this is a sophisticated Riesling.  Layers of nectarine, peach and Meyer lemon interweave with minerality, a pleasing herbal component and bracing acidity.  This complex wine is just beginning to show its potential; expect it to further develop as it matures.  SRP: ~$25 www.brengmanbrothers.comAnthony Road Wine Company 2013 Dry Riesling; Finger Lakes, New York:  This inviting wine’s expressive aromas of white peach and hint of earthiness effortlessly charm the nose.   Sweet stone fruit, well defined minerality and a tinge of herbs flow across the palate with ease.  The fruit and acids are nicely balanced, and the finish is focused and uplifted.  SRP: $17 www.anthonyroadwine.comGehringer Bothers Estate Winery 2013 Private Reserve Riesling; Okanagan Valley, British Columbia:  Tempting notes of wet stone and mango on the nose unfold fully in the mouth with lemon-lime, peach skin and guava flavors joining in mid palate.  This well balanced Riesling is sinewy and streamlined through the bright finish.  SRP:  $14.99 www.gehringerwines.caChateau Grand Traverse 2013 Lot 49 Cuvee Molly Devine Riesling; Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan:  Mouthwatering aromas of fresh juicy peaches and nectarines wow the senses with this vivacious Riesling.  The stone fruit bursts forth on entry, and a trace of sweetness tiptoes onto the palate entwining with the juicy, citrus-infused fruit.  A deliciously mesmerizing wine from first sip to lingering aftertaste.  SRP: $21 www.cgtwines.com